Sunday 22 November 2009

Puerto Viejo de Talamanca

After spending a night in San Jose and getting a free pancake breakfast we hopped on a bus to Puerto Viejo in order to meet up with our friends Vee, Maya and Jaz who were working on an organic farm there.

When we arrived we checked into a really cool hostel called 'Rocking Js' where we booked hammocks to sleep in and then grabbed food at a soda- rice with coco-nut milk, frijoles, chicken and salad, then set out to find Maya and Vee. Our first effort was an epic fail as we turned up at the wrong organic farm and just felt really disapointed and a bit silly. On the plus side the man had heard about our three english friends and gave us some instructions that we followed the next day. He told us to get the bus to Bribri but ask the bus driver to stop outside Dona Petronela's cacao farm and then ask her to get one of her workers to show us the entrance to Alejandra's farm. When we got to the cacao farm, the lady let us try loads of chocolate samples and gave us a big bag of coco paste as a pressie before she called for someone to show us the entrance to the farm where our friends were working.

The entrance was literally an opening in the jungle, it was tipping down with rain and we had to trek it up this massive mudslide of a hill-come-river. It took at least 20 minutes of continuous struggling to scramble up the jungley hill and finally we found Alejandra who pointed us in the direction of our friends. Seeing our friendies from England was amazing- lots of screaming and shouting as we re-united. The girls have been living in a shanti shack. Their room had no walls, a tin roof, they was in a bucket as there's no running water. All their clothes were going mouldy due to the damp that they were living in and they were forced to live on a vegan diet consisting of mouse-sized portions- POOR BABYS!

After catching up and being showed around we all caught the bus back to puerto viejo and got lunch and chocolate brownies. Back in our hostel the girls showered and we all made a massive pot of hot chocolate. That night there was a live band in the hostel bar so we got cocktails and nachos. The girls left at 10ish but we danced loads and got given free shots, then went to the after party at Mangos. Got home at 4am all having had so much fun!

Wednesday 18 November 2009

San Juan del Sud

We fell head over heels for this place! We arrived on Thursday at about 4pm after catching a couple of chicken buses- checked into a hostel and chilled on the beach til sunset. We didn't leave til 6 days later!

On the friday morning we got up at 6.30am to get ready for a yoga class. We waiting outside a cafe where a pick-up collected us and drove us to the most beautiful setting. We had our yoga class under a fixed gazebo with a thatched roof, surrounded by mago trees, over looking a swimmimg pool. We did the yoga for over an hour an in the relaxation period, the lady came around giving us all mini-thai massages and rubbed essential oils into our feet and temples- it smelt amazing. At the end we all got complementry home made iced tea too, it was really refreshing.

Once we'd been dropped back, me and Katie got a typical nica breakfast (huevos revueltos with frijoles, potatos, coffee and orange juice- yummmmmm.) Then we all searched for a cheaper hostel and ended up renting a room from a lovely lady who owned a laundrette. We loved having our own room, with our own house key, it smelt of soapy washing powder and was pretty shabby but it was home. We spent the rest of the day sunbatheing at the beach and then at 7.30pm we met at casa oro for a talk on turtles and turtle conservation before going to the reserve. 21 of us climbed into a large pick-up truck and were driven down dirt roads for about an hour and a half before getting to the beach where the turtles lived. It was pitch black but for the most incredible stars and red torches we'd been given (white light can damage the turtles or confuse them). We watched 75 baby turtles be released into the ocean, they were so cute. Then the guide took us to a grown turtle and we watched her dig her nest with her back legs, lay around 100 eggs and bury them in order to protect them. it was such a cool experience.

The next morning we went to yoga again before relaxing on a beach. We bumped into a girl that we've now bumped into in 4 different countries (she's lovely), her and her friend sunbathed with us and then we ended up all going out for dinner together (and 5 other people aswell). We had gallo pinto with barbacued chicken-nice! Then all went out to a really cool bar called the pier where there was this ultra hippy band was playing, a belly dancer and beach bonfires. We decided the night was still young as the bar began to close, so went out dancing to the only place still open and didn't stop dancing til 5am.

We'd spent most of the evening with three guys travelling together from Canada and met them the next day because they'd promised to teach us how to surf. We all rented boards and got a collectivo to a beach called El Remanso. I had a great day and we surfed right till the sun was setting, it was amazing.

Once we got dropped back to our hostels, we were starving and so got changed quickly before all going out for dinner together again, there was about 9 of us and we had the most delicious pizza ever (we got a free shot with the bill).

Next morning Katie and Allegra stayed in bed, but I got up and went to the guys hostel and off we all went to Yoga (they were really good... put me to shame) Then I picked up the girls and we all had brekki at El Mercado, I had Gallo Pinto with scrambled eggs and tortilla, then we hopped in the van to go surfing.

In the eveing we all went out to a fish restaurant and then reaturn to their hostel for a pre-party where we made our own cocktails from Flor de Cana and fruit juice. We stayed out late hanging out at the pier and iguanas (another beach bar).

The next day was again very relaxed, although i burned the entire back of my body and this morning we caught a bus to Cota Rica... well serval buses... and it didn't take so much as a morning as all day because we left San Juan del Sud at 8am and arrived in San Jose (Costa Rica) at 7pm.

Thursday 12 November 2009

Granada -Nicaragua-

We left Perquin at 6.30am, spent 12 hours on a variety of chicken buses and crossed two borders before arriving at Nicaraguas captial- Managua. We ended up staying in a really nice, spacious hostel, although there were alot of holes in the walls. We went across the road and i tried Iguana soup for dinner, it was actually really yummy!

Next day we got up early and got on a shuttle bus to Granada. After dumping our stuff in a hostel we wandered through the city and found the biggest market ever- it stretched on for miles! We wandered around and picked out vegtables, rice, frijoles and spice to cook dinner with- we were pretty proud of our efforts.

That evening we met a really lovely guy called Alan who said he'd show us around the city and take us on a boat trip around the islands -it's the biggest lake in the whole of Central America- The next morning we met Alan, bought pasteries for breakfast and ate them in his hostel with free coffee. Two swiss people joined our trip- Alan took us to the indian park where they used to have markets every sunday, now it's abandoned and over grown though. He took us through the high class area, the middle class area and the poor area, which is the 'hood' he grew up in. We went into the old fortress used to protect the city from pirates, it was turned into a prison and torture chamber during the civil war in order to capture those involved with the revolution. Up the tower was the most amazing view of the whole city. Then we went into the most amazing grave yard i've ever seen. They weren't so much graves as houses for the dead- one was even made from marble and an exact replica of Granadas newest church, although instead of angles on the roof were skulls as the woman was said to have done a deal with the devil. Granada and Leon both wanted to be the capital city so Leon hired a man to burn Granada city to the ground. The first time he burnt it, he left a plaque saying 'here was Granada' and the second time he burnt it, he left a coffin, implying that Granada was dead, but the city rebuilt and is alive as ever.

After our morning walk, we all jumped in a boat a went around the lake. We stopped at monkey island where a monkey jumped on to our boat, walked up an down the middle and snatched a bannana off the swiss girl, then it grabbed Katie's hand before walking off again- very cool!

We stopped at a second island and spent 4 hours swimming in the lake, sunbathing and getting lunch. It was paradise, so beautiful and really chilled.

When we got back to the main land Alan showed us a good hairdresser so Leggra could get her hair done- it cost the equivalent of 1pound 20 and looks really good. Then we walked back to Alan's hostel where him and the swiss girl cooked us dinner with the remaining beans and some more bits we'd bought from the market- delicious!

Perquin

We got a number of chicken buses to Perquin, a really important town, up in the mountains in El Salvador, as it was controlled by the guerrillas during the civil war. We stayed in a really beautiful hotel, we had our own log cabin and the food was amazing!

It rained like crazy during our time in Perquin, we didn't realise at the time, but this was because of a hurricane. The hurricane killed over 100 people in El Salvador and left even more homeless or injurged. By complete coinsidence, we were in the safest place possible. Being on top of a mountain ment that the land slides didn't affect us- we're just lucky i guess!!

We went to El Museo de la Revolucion and a man called Carlos showed us around. He fought with the guerrillas, against the goverment from the age of 16 between 1980 and 1992. He's been shot in each leg and he showed me the bullet wound in his neck and told me that afterwards he couldn't speak or eat for 8 months and had to be in a volunteer run hospital in the mountains whilst he recovered. His 2 sisters and brothers also fought in the war, but i'm not sure what happened to them.

The guerillas were supported by various organizations but the money was limited. People went down to San Salvador to bring back food for the guerrillas but the whole trip took 8 days so for at least 4 days the guerrillas would have nothing to eat.

All the photos were in black and white and Carlos took us outside to show us the wreckage of helicopters that the guerrillas had shot down. It was incredible hearing all this information first hand and made me realise how lucky i am to have never gone through what Carlos had at only 16 years old.

Next door was the guerrilla camp which a boy showed us around. Around 200- 300 guerrillas would have lived there. We saw bunkers and tunnels that the freedom fighters would have hid in as goverment helicopters flew over head dropping bombs.

At the end of the tour the boy showed us an old photo of his dad in his guerrilla uniform. His dad fought from the ages of 14 to 26 and still has a scar on the side of his face from when he was shot.

San Salvador

Crossing the border from Guatemala to El Salvador turned out to be a long journey. We made our way using local buses- ie. Chicken Buses. Chicken buses are an experience in themselves- they are old american school buses, brightly painted and covered with cartoon stickers. They are crammed full with people and luggage, hot and uncomfy. Men, women and children walk up the isles with baskets of snacks, fruit, newspapers, fizzy drinks, gum in their arms or balanced on their head trying to sell you their products. One man stood at the frount of the bus reading from the bible and at one stop a man dressed as a clown got on and performed magic tricks. Chicken buses are crazy!

We saved alot of money getting the chicken buses instead of the tourist bus, but it ment we had to get 5 buses instead of 1, it was quite fun though and at the border there were bicycle taxis. We sat in a little carriage thing whilst a the taxi driver cycled us across a large bridge connecting Guatemala and El Salvador.

When we got to the capital it was dark so instead of continuing we decided to stay over night. The next morning we explored the city and went to Museo de la palabra y la Imagen which was really cool- had lots of images of the poverty in El Salvador and of the civil war too.

We wandered into the city centre- poked our heads in the market and cathedral. Unfortunatly it started raining around mid day so decided to go to this big american-style mall- shop and go to the cinema.

I have to be honest and say that San Salvador is the most horrible place we've been out of the trip so far, it's smelly and grimey and the streets are lined with american fast food resturants. Everyone carrys a gun and i even saw a man get on the bus with a machete. Every bank, garage, hostel, clothes shop, cinema ect has an armed gaurd in it. The upside however, is that everyone is really friendly and goes out of their way to help you. All the same is was a relif when we left the city!

Thursday 5 November 2009

Antigua

At 8ish in the morning we got to a hostel called ´the black cat´at that time in the morning we were too tired to notice, but later it became all too evident that the whole room was covered in mould and damp, it stank too! Katie slept in a bit whilst me and Leggra wandered through the town and into a market where i bought a handbag (did some some hardcore haggling and got the woman down to half price) and Leggra bought some sandles.

At 2ish, Katie joined us and we hopped into a collectivo for a tour of the local coffee plantation. It was really cool- now i know how cooffe is made, from the plant to the cup. Also i interestingly discovered that although espresso tastes stronger, it actually has less caffine in it than normal coffee because espresso beans are roasted longer. After that we also had a tour about traditional Maya instuments and music, then at the end we got free coffee- it tasted amazing!

When we got dropped back we raced off to a free salsa workshop that we´d seen advertised in our hostel- it was so fun. We learnt a few basic steps then all the men who worked in the hostel and had salsaed all their lives danced with us so we could put what we´d learnt into practice.

After dinner we sat in our hostels bar for a bit and saw the salsa instructors their. After chatting for a bit they took us and some others from the hostel to a bar called mono loco (it was ladies night, so our drinks were about 10p each) then on to a salsa bar. The salsa bar was crazy, everyone and i mean EVERYONE was salsaring- being flipped upside down, whizzed around, shimmying, singing, screaming- the atmosphere was electric. I danced with a guy from our dorm, but although i enjoyed myself, it has to be said that the latin women put me to shame.

The next day was amazing. We spent the afternoon treking up an active volcano- 1-2 intensive hours walking practically vertically upwards. The views were breath-taking and just the fact we were walking up an active volcano was too. We´d brought marshmallows from the market that morning because normally you´re allowed to toast them on the lava. When we got to the top however the guide told us it was too unsafe to get that close to the lava and just as i asked why... a massive glowing red rock began to pick up speed as it rolled down the mountain in our directing before veering off- everyone freaked and start running away from it. I nearly got pushed over by this woman trying to run past me. All the same, it was really cool watching the glowing red lava against the dark night sky as well as feeling the heat that all the big rocks were emitting. the rocks around us were way too hot to touch for any amounted off time.

At one point me, Legs and Katie got really scared that the guide had left us because it was getting close to pitch black and we couldn´t find him anywhere. No-one else seemed to know where he was either, so we persuaded this poor guy from our group to walk with us back down the volcano. Unfortunately none of us had a torch, it was freezing cold once you´d moved away from the hot rocks and we were all terrified and kept tripping. Luckiy after a while we had the sense to stop and wait and soon herd voices behind us- one of which was our guides. ´where were you? we thought you´d left us.´i said trying not to sound us upset as i was.
He just shrugged and said 'i´m here now' and then gave me his spare tourch.

Once we were with our guide and surrounded by the rest of our group walking down the volcano in the dark was really fun, except when the guide kept jumping out at me from behind trees and creeping up on me going 'sasha...' in a really scarey voice. I feel for it evrytime but i did see the funny side after the inital shock.

Flores (Guatemala)


On friday at 6am we got in to a van, hopped on a boat the got another bus in order to cross the boarder into Guatemala. Flores is a really quite place... too quite for me, but i really did appreciate how beautiful it was.

On our first day we lazed around alot- sitting in hammocks, swimmimg in the lake (both before breakfast and after watching the sunset). Its so green in guatemala- palm trees are everywhere. What did suprise me though is how the locals will casually stroll around with guns tucked into belts around their jeans. All the same, they´re really friendly and helpful.

We had dinner at a really lovely restuarant over looking the lake with a couple of cocktails (only 1pound here). In the evening we came across a small bar absoloutly packed with people dancing to a live band- it was so much fun. When the band ended, we headed next door to a club playing loud latin music and danced til we couldn´t feel our feet anymore. Unlike party Mexico though- everything in Guatemala closes at 1am- bars, night clubs... everything.

The next day was another chilled day and in the evening we snuggled up in this really cute cafe and watched a dvd with a free bowl of pop corn and nchos with salsa and guacamole.

Early start the next day, as we got the 5am bus to Tikal, a beautiful old maya city, surrounded by jungle. We passed a lake with a crocodile lazing by the bank on our way in and also saw a racoon and a monkey swining through the trees! To get to the top of one of the temples, we had to climb a 58m wooden ladder. In truth i was terrified, but the view was so worth it. Jungle stretched as far as the eye could see only broken up by the odd stone temple or ruin.

That night we got a night bus to Antigua, an all together much livlier place!