We reaturned to La Paz to celebrate christmas in style- good food, good drink, good people and a jacuzzi! Then boxing day evening we got on yet another 12 hour night bus heading for Uyuni a little town at the bottom of Bolivia offering salt flat tours. Infact as soon as we groggily got off the bus at 7am we were approached by several companys and ended up leaving on our 3 day trek only 3 1/2 hours later. 6 of us clambered into a 4x4 and drove over the bright white salt flats, which were incredibly beautiful. We made several stops, one of which was in a small village where artesans made mini llamas, pots and keyrings from salt, and another was at the salt hotel where literally everything was made from salt- the walls, beds, floor, roof ect.. We ate lunch here on a table and chairs made entirely of salt. Before arriving at our salt hostel further on, we visited Isla del Pescado, a rocky island filled with cacti, bang in the middle of the irredesently white salt flats.
The next day we left at 6am and this time drove through different terrain. The roads were dusty and desolate and all around us were mountains, one with seven different colours. We passed lots of becoñas and llamas on our trip and stopped at Dali´s desert, the place that inspired him to paint the melted clocks. On this day we also saw five lagoons, the most beautiful was pink with 20,000 flamingos.
Day 3 called for an even ealier start... we left at 5am. The most amazing thing we saw was just before breakfast- geyseres... holes in the ground filled with steam and bubbling water of 90 degrees, ocassionally bursts of this water would shoot up into the air. A little further along the road were the natural hot springs. Here is where we ate pancakes, yoghurt with cereal and drank black coffee for breakfast, then changed into bikinis and jumped into the hot spring. Unfortunately the next thing we had to do was drop my friend at the chilean boarder, where we said goodbye (we´re meeting up again soon) after 2 1/2 months of travelling together.
We spent the night in Uyuni on our reaturn- it´s possibly the bleakest town I´ve been to on my trip and was glad to leave it the next day at 10am. The road from Uyuni to Sucre is really bumpy, I was thrown out of my seat most of the time and to top it off the wheel of the bus fell off- it´s all part of the experience though!
Thursday 31 December 2009
Friday 25 December 2009
Las Pampas
From La Paz it was an epic 20 hour bus journey to Rurrenabaque where we got a 3 hour jeep ride down a dirt track to Santa Rosa where we began our stay in Las Pampas... well worth all the effort though. Once we met our guide in Santa Rosa, we got into a wooden canoe with a little motor and slowly made our way up the river, through the amazon. We saw many aligators lying on the side of the banks, as well as turtles resting on logs, brightly coloured birds and a family of capibaras. The guide pulled up by a tree where a group of squirrel monkeys were playing- he held a bannana above our heads and all the monkeys jumped onto our heads and crawled over our backs, then he let us feed the monkeys.
Once we arrived at the lodge where we were staying, we shoved our stuff in the room before getting back in the boat to view the sunset futher up the river. After sunset went aligator watching- if you shine a torch at aligators in the dark... their eyes glow red- very cool! We stopped at the edge of the river at one point and the guide wandered off only to reaturn, moments later, with a baby aligator that he let each of us hold. Back at the lodge we were fed really well with yummy, healthy food.
The next day a breakfast of pancakes, fruit and pastries awaited us before we pulled on some wellies to go anaconder hunting in the swampy part. We trekked for ages and the guide told me that due to the overcast sky, it was a 70% chance that we wouldn´t find a snake... but we did and I got to hold an anaconder. We reaturned late for lunch and then chilled in hammocks until pirana fishing. My first ever time fishing was in the amazon and I caught 14 fish... 3 of which were piranas- I felt pretty proud! We then motored to another great view point for another beautiful sunset and got back to have our piranas with dinner- if not a little boney, they were delicious. We spent the evening lazying in hammocks, overlooking the water and chatting to our guide.
The last day was great- we found a spot in the river to go swimming where pink dolphins popped their heads up every now and then. I was terriffied that an aligator would come and rip me limb from limb, but swimming in the amazon was incredible. Following an early lnunch, we made a quick get away, motoring back up the river to Santa Rosa. We managed to get a night bus back to La Paz (another hellish 20 hours) and arrived in time for christmas eve in the lively city.
Saturday 19 December 2009
La Paz
La Paz is a massive city and arriving in it can be daunting, however once me and Allegra arrived, ate and had a black coffee at the market place, we did manage to navigate our way across it to meet our two friends where we found them sat in a hot tub in their (much nicer than our) hostel. And this is where we learned that the amazing DJ Tiesto was playing in town that night. Very excited we ran to the reception to get tickets... only to find out they´d all been sold, leaving us no choice but to jump in a taxi and run to the gig to get tickets from a tout, which we did with sucess. The guys we bought the tickets from ended up being really fun, we queued with them, they bought us drinks and we all danced together during the concert. The concert itself was incredible! It was jam packed and Tiesto played just about every great song that I know, we had such a fun evening.
The next morning (or should I say afternoon as that is when I lazily woke up) I went to the market for a delicious fruit salad topped with honey, yoghurt and popcorn. Then me and my friends spent the day wandering around the witches market where they sell all sorts of things from alpaka jumpers to incense sticks, lucky charms, guitars and bongo drums. We even found a coco museam there, describing the impotance of the coco leaf in Bolivia's culture. That night we went to a bar that played a mixture of latin american and american chart music, followed by a much less local feeling bar which we didn´t leave till 6am.
Next day we explored the city by visiting various plazas and going to the mirador where there´s a fabulous view of La Paz. We then came across a little christmas market, which sold christmas decorations, cards, gifts, toffee apples and chocolate. We had another market meal for dinner (I love this as it´s so bussely and has such a local feel) then went out to an urban music bar with funky murals over the walls and live music- a really cool afro-bolivian band played as well people rapping.
On our last day in La Paz (as for the moment) me and my friend got our fortunes read by a witch doctor who uses coco leaves and looks at the way they fall on his cloth. Apparently I´m going to be lucky in love and work... but won´t reaturn to South America...we´ll see.
Thursday 17 December 2009
La Isla Del Sol
We got an 8.30am ferry to Isla del Sol, ditched the tour and got a one way ticket. We walked to the Inca ruins in the south of the island and then got trout for lunch in the town close by and filled up our water from the Inca fountain. We did a 3 hour trek to the north of the island, the views of lake Titicaca were gorgeous. The village were we stayed Challapampa, was so cute, donkeys and pigs wandered around the beach and lamas roamed in the hills above. We went for a wander before dinner and watched the locals playing a volleyball match by the beach. Dinner was in a really sweet restaurant on the beach where we had red wine, soup and trout- yum!!
Me and Leggra went to see 'El Templo del Sol' the next day and the sacred rock- there were loads of little passages and tunnels to explore. when we reaturned, we chilled on the beach where a little girl was hassling me for sweets. I gave her a sweet and then we made sand statues together and buried eachothers feet, such a sweetie.
By then it was time to hop on the boat back to Copacabana, stopping at the floating islands. We cooked dinner in the hostel and then headed down to a bar.
Me and Leggra went to see 'El Templo del Sol' the next day and the sacred rock- there were loads of little passages and tunnels to explore. when we reaturned, we chilled on the beach where a little girl was hassling me for sweets. I gave her a sweet and then we made sand statues together and buried eachothers feet, such a sweetie.
By then it was time to hop on the boat back to Copacabana, stopping at the floating islands. We cooked dinner in the hostel and then headed down to a bar.
The amazingness of Copacabana!!
The border crossing from Peru to Bolivia deserves a separate entry in itself as it was so crazy! We got a 6 hour bus ride to Puno and then a little local bus to the border, however they´d under-estimated our journey so we ended up arriving 30 minutes before the border was due to close. As the local bus didn´t drop us right to the border but instead in the middle of nowhere we had to make our way passed a very insistent taxi driver and into a collectivo which drove painfully slowly, not to the border, but to the dodgey border town. I checked my clock and was pretty sure the border would have closed but a police man told us that if we caught a taxi from the next square, we could still make it. So through the town we ran with our extremely heavy backpacks and jumped into a taxi... luckily the border was still open and we made it through, however as we left the border shut right behind us. We got into another taxi to Copacabana when suddenly the taxi driver pulled over on the side of the road and opened the boot and in jumped a woman. She smiled at me and said 'hola´as she snuggled up against our big backpacks. It was really wierd, it felt like she was some kind of hostage... but she seemed happy enough.
After checking into a cheapy hostel and eating we came across a bolivian folk band playing in the square so went to watch. It turned out that we´d stumbled across a street party in order to celebrate the day of the police and the day of the virgin of copacabana. Fireworks were randomly let off throughout the evening, the sparks showering the audience. An old man walked amonst the crowd with a big steel pot filled with té con té (a hot drink of tea, sugar cane and strong alchole). Another man was handing everyone coco leaves to chew on and then later in the night someone came round handing us free sandwidches too! we ended up dancing with a massive group of guys from La Paz who were lots of fun. Part way through the night there would be sketches of how the police helped and what they did and then there would be more live music. To end the night was an even bigger display of fireworks.
The following morning there was a procession for the police and the virgin of Copacabana and as it turned out, the group we´d been dancing with the previous night were all police and in the procession. All the locals were gathered to watch the procession which began outside the church. There were tonnes of police with either swords or brass instruments marching from the church to the lake. Leading the procession was the chief of police in robes and behind them a large statue of the virgin of copacabana was being carried. We followed the procession and got given posters of the virgin and rose petals to throw at her. When we got down to the lake the statue was raised on to a boat with the chief of police. We saw our new policeman friends in the crowd and went to chat with them, as they were about to get on another boat to follow the statue we got to go on too and motored around lake Titicaca for a while.
After checking into a cheapy hostel and eating we came across a bolivian folk band playing in the square so went to watch. It turned out that we´d stumbled across a street party in order to celebrate the day of the police and the day of the virgin of copacabana. Fireworks were randomly let off throughout the evening, the sparks showering the audience. An old man walked amonst the crowd with a big steel pot filled with té con té (a hot drink of tea, sugar cane and strong alchole). Another man was handing everyone coco leaves to chew on and then later in the night someone came round handing us free sandwidches too! we ended up dancing with a massive group of guys from La Paz who were lots of fun. Part way through the night there would be sketches of how the police helped and what they did and then there would be more live music. To end the night was an even bigger display of fireworks.
The following morning there was a procession for the police and the virgin of Copacabana and as it turned out, the group we´d been dancing with the previous night were all police and in the procession. All the locals were gathered to watch the procession which began outside the church. There were tonnes of police with either swords or brass instruments marching from the church to the lake. Leading the procession was the chief of police in robes and behind them a large statue of the virgin of copacabana was being carried. We followed the procession and got given posters of the virgin and rose petals to throw at her. When we got down to the lake the statue was raised on to a boat with the chief of police. We saw our new policeman friends in the crowd and went to chat with them, as they were about to get on another boat to follow the statue we got to go on too and motored around lake Titicaca for a while.
Thursday 10 December 2009
Arequipa and the Colca Trek
We got to Arequipa at 5.40am and checked into a hostel then spent the day wandering through Santa Catalina, a monestery filled with gorgeous courtyards then headed to Casa Verde, a cafe where the money goes to help the 25 street children they´ve housed who also help out in the cafe. I´ve never done so much good just by eating chocolate cake.
The next day we went to the museam of Juanita one of the girls found in the mountains sacrificed by the incas. It was really interesting to learn about the sacrifices of the children but obviously very eery as we actually got to see the girls body which had been preserved by the ice on the mountain where she was buried. The chosen child had to trek up the mountain with only sandles on their feet, surviving on nothing but vegtables and coco leaves. 8 hours before their death they were only allowed to eat coco leaves and right before the fatal blow to the head was given, they were made to drink large amounts of chi cha, a strong corn beer.
On a much less morbid note we woke up at 2.30am the following morning to get ready for a trek through the colca canyon, which was amazing. We began with a buffet breakfast and then started the trek which was only 3 hours and really easy the first day. Walking through the dusty mountains was amazing and for the last 20 minutes we scrambled up the rocks to a lodge with the most amazing view of the canyon where we relaxed in the sun had dinner and slept. The lodge was made of mud bricks with a bamboo door, the roof was made of palm leaves and the floor was just earth, there was no electricity. It was a really sweet lodge though and I loved it there. Breakfast was at 7.30 and then we began the next bit of our trek to the oasis. After 3 hours of trekking in the hot sun it was amazing to arrive at the next lodge which had a swimming pool with a waterfall! We got in our bikinis and swam in the pool straight away then lay in the sun until lunch. Once again our sleeping arrangments were basic with no electricity (but plenty of mosquitos) and we had to get up at 4.30am the next day to begin the 3hour trekup the steepest part of the mountain. The trek up was really hard but me and my friend Tracey were the first from our group up and actually did it in 2 and a half hours- yay! Then we all had to walk across corn fields for 20minutes before getting our well deserved breakfast. After lunch in a town called Chivay (a buffet that I really made the most of) we spent an hour in hot springs which was amazing for our aching muscles.
We got back to Arequipa at around 6.30pm and afew of us got together later to begin making Pisco Sour coctails using the blender in our hostel. That evening we went out to sample Arequipa´s nightlife and the verdict is that it´s very fun!
The next day we went to the museam of Juanita one of the girls found in the mountains sacrificed by the incas. It was really interesting to learn about the sacrifices of the children but obviously very eery as we actually got to see the girls body which had been preserved by the ice on the mountain where she was buried. The chosen child had to trek up the mountain with only sandles on their feet, surviving on nothing but vegtables and coco leaves. 8 hours before their death they were only allowed to eat coco leaves and right before the fatal blow to the head was given, they were made to drink large amounts of chi cha, a strong corn beer.
On a much less morbid note we woke up at 2.30am the following morning to get ready for a trek through the colca canyon, which was amazing. We began with a buffet breakfast and then started the trek which was only 3 hours and really easy the first day. Walking through the dusty mountains was amazing and for the last 20 minutes we scrambled up the rocks to a lodge with the most amazing view of the canyon where we relaxed in the sun had dinner and slept. The lodge was made of mud bricks with a bamboo door, the roof was made of palm leaves and the floor was just earth, there was no electricity. It was a really sweet lodge though and I loved it there. Breakfast was at 7.30 and then we began the next bit of our trek to the oasis. After 3 hours of trekking in the hot sun it was amazing to arrive at the next lodge which had a swimming pool with a waterfall! We got in our bikinis and swam in the pool straight away then lay in the sun until lunch. Once again our sleeping arrangments were basic with no electricity (but plenty of mosquitos) and we had to get up at 4.30am the next day to begin the 3hour trekup the steepest part of the mountain. The trek up was really hard but me and my friend Tracey were the first from our group up and actually did it in 2 and a half hours- yay! Then we all had to walk across corn fields for 20minutes before getting our well deserved breakfast. After lunch in a town called Chivay (a buffet that I really made the most of) we spent an hour in hot springs which was amazing for our aching muscles.
We got back to Arequipa at around 6.30pm and afew of us got together later to begin making Pisco Sour coctails using the blender in our hostel. That evening we went out to sample Arequipa´s nightlife and the verdict is that it´s very fun!
Saturday 5 December 2009
The Inca Trail and Cusco
When we arrived in Peru´s capital city, Lima, we checked into the hotel and got free Pisco Sours at our inca trail meeting that evening. We met three other women doing the trek and all went out for dinner together that night.
The next day we all flew to Cusco and recieved cups of coco tea when we arrived at the hotel to help us with any altitude problems. We had a welcome meeting where we met one other girl and then all went out for lunch -3 courses for under a pound. Then we wandered around the typical peruvian markets and i became the proud owner of an alpaka jumper and 2 pairs of alpacka socks. The haggling is fun but can become tiring, it´s worth it though to get a good deal. In the evening, the full group of 16 gathered for another meeting on a day by day break down of our trip.
The next day we all had breakfast in the hotel, put our bags into storage, packed duffle bags for the inca trail and set off. First we stopped off at a project that our tour company ran where we went to a village and watched the women there weaving, we saw the process from the wool spinning, dying (they use leaves to create different dyes) to the weaving which they used condor bones for. All the women and children wore traditional clothing- long dark hair in two plaits tied together with string at the bottom, long skirts, plain tops, brightly coloured cardigens and shawls. After looking around the market village, we had a guided tour of the sacred valley before being to explore the incredible ruins amongst the mountains.
Next stop was an amazing place for lunch followed by a trip to Inka Bar where they brew corn beer. We learned about the beer making process before sampling the different flavours- the best beer I´ve ever tried. After this packed day we were driven to a tiny town called Ollantaytambo were we all spent the night before the big day ahead.
In the morning the trek began. Day one was to ease us in gently- after walking to camp we had luch and looked around a little ruin close by and watched the porters (who crazily still had energy) play football. To end the evening was hot choc , biscuits and a three course meal before heading to the tents for sleep.
Day 2 of the trek was hard as we climbed a long steep pass to Warmiwañusca (dead woman´s pass) which is 4200metres above sea level and the highest point of the trek. Though it was tough we had so much fun chatting with everyoine in the group and playing distraction games. At the top it was freezing and took an hour and a half to climb down. At camp we had a late lunch and a chance to chill abit before dinner.
Day 3 we trekked up to the second pass 3398metres, the trail went through this beautiful cloud forest, we then had lunch before continuing up the third pass and walking through a causeway and tunnel. Before reaching the town above the clouds (ruins called Phuyupatamka) we passed a double rainbow over the mountains which was so beautiful. Then we dorddled down to camp, the whople day was 9 hours of trekking, but we loved it and trhe group was so close by this time. This evening was a bit of a celebration with cake, pop corn, beer and cocktails. I went to bed at 12am so had 4 hours sleep before we got up to start trekking on day 4. After breakfast we trekked to the sungate in the pouring rain and then onto the stunning Machu Picchu, where lamas were grazing amonst the ruins.
After lunch all together in Aguas Calientes we got the train then bus back to Cusco. Our last night all together was amazing- my favourite of the trip so far. We all had dinner with our guide too and tried the local delicacey- ginea pig- as a starter. For mains, i was less adventerous with a burger, but i did try some of Allegra´s alpaka. Then, after some coctails we all went out dancing til 5am- the perfect way to spend the last evening of everyone together, we all had so much fun.
Once we´d said bye to everyone on the trip, us girls spend a couple more nights in a cheapy hostel. We had a chilled couple of days going to the market, seeing an art gallery and we climbed up a hill in Cusco to El Cristo Blanco and get a great view of the city.
The next day we all flew to Cusco and recieved cups of coco tea when we arrived at the hotel to help us with any altitude problems. We had a welcome meeting where we met one other girl and then all went out for lunch -3 courses for under a pound. Then we wandered around the typical peruvian markets and i became the proud owner of an alpaka jumper and 2 pairs of alpacka socks. The haggling is fun but can become tiring, it´s worth it though to get a good deal. In the evening, the full group of 16 gathered for another meeting on a day by day break down of our trip.
The next day we all had breakfast in the hotel, put our bags into storage, packed duffle bags for the inca trail and set off. First we stopped off at a project that our tour company ran where we went to a village and watched the women there weaving, we saw the process from the wool spinning, dying (they use leaves to create different dyes) to the weaving which they used condor bones for. All the women and children wore traditional clothing- long dark hair in two plaits tied together with string at the bottom, long skirts, plain tops, brightly coloured cardigens and shawls. After looking around the market village, we had a guided tour of the sacred valley before being to explore the incredible ruins amongst the mountains.
Next stop was an amazing place for lunch followed by a trip to Inka Bar where they brew corn beer. We learned about the beer making process before sampling the different flavours- the best beer I´ve ever tried. After this packed day we were driven to a tiny town called Ollantaytambo were we all spent the night before the big day ahead.
In the morning the trek began. Day one was to ease us in gently- after walking to camp we had luch and looked around a little ruin close by and watched the porters (who crazily still had energy) play football. To end the evening was hot choc , biscuits and a three course meal before heading to the tents for sleep.
Day 2 of the trek was hard as we climbed a long steep pass to Warmiwañusca (dead woman´s pass) which is 4200metres above sea level and the highest point of the trek. Though it was tough we had so much fun chatting with everyoine in the group and playing distraction games. At the top it was freezing and took an hour and a half to climb down. At camp we had a late lunch and a chance to chill abit before dinner.
Day 3 we trekked up to the second pass 3398metres, the trail went through this beautiful cloud forest, we then had lunch before continuing up the third pass and walking through a causeway and tunnel. Before reaching the town above the clouds (ruins called Phuyupatamka) we passed a double rainbow over the mountains which was so beautiful. Then we dorddled down to camp, the whople day was 9 hours of trekking, but we loved it and trhe group was so close by this time. This evening was a bit of a celebration with cake, pop corn, beer and cocktails. I went to bed at 12am so had 4 hours sleep before we got up to start trekking on day 4. After breakfast we trekked to the sungate in the pouring rain and then onto the stunning Machu Picchu, where lamas were grazing amonst the ruins.
After lunch all together in Aguas Calientes we got the train then bus back to Cusco. Our last night all together was amazing- my favourite of the trip so far. We all had dinner with our guide too and tried the local delicacey- ginea pig- as a starter. For mains, i was less adventerous with a burger, but i did try some of Allegra´s alpaka. Then, after some coctails we all went out dancing til 5am- the perfect way to spend the last evening of everyone together, we all had so much fun.
Once we´d said bye to everyone on the trip, us girls spend a couple more nights in a cheapy hostel. We had a chilled couple of days going to the market, seeing an art gallery and we climbed up a hill in Cusco to El Cristo Blanco and get a great view of the city.
Friday 4 December 2009
San Jose
We spend the day with Vee, Jaz and Maya wandering around the artesan market after having had a lazy morning eating pancakes. In the evening me, katie and Leggra cooked up a yummy dinner- mexican eggs, frijoles and platanos- we felt preety proud of ourselves. The next morning we said bye to Maya, Vee and Jaz which was really sad, as they were heading off to the pacific coast and then we headed off to the central market, where we got the most delicous meal for next to nothing and bought dinner.
On our third lazy day in the city we visited a butterfly garden- the butterflys were incredible- so huge and colourful. We had lunch at a soda then went to a contempory art and design exhibition. The exhibition was amazing and had loads of photos showing different asspects of central american life. We ended the day with a mocha and a film then packed for our flight to Peru.
On our third lazy day in the city we visited a butterfly garden- the butterflys were incredible- so huge and colourful. We had lunch at a soda then went to a contempory art and design exhibition. The exhibition was amazing and had loads of photos showing different asspects of central american life. We ended the day with a mocha and a film then packed for our flight to Peru.
Sunday 22 November 2009
Puerto Viejo de Talamanca
After spending a night in San Jose and getting a free pancake breakfast we hopped on a bus to Puerto Viejo in order to meet up with our friends Vee, Maya and Jaz who were working on an organic farm there.
When we arrived we checked into a really cool hostel called 'Rocking Js' where we booked hammocks to sleep in and then grabbed food at a soda- rice with coco-nut milk, frijoles, chicken and salad, then set out to find Maya and Vee. Our first effort was an epic fail as we turned up at the wrong organic farm and just felt really disapointed and a bit silly. On the plus side the man had heard about our three english friends and gave us some instructions that we followed the next day. He told us to get the bus to Bribri but ask the bus driver to stop outside Dona Petronela's cacao farm and then ask her to get one of her workers to show us the entrance to Alejandra's farm. When we got to the cacao farm, the lady let us try loads of chocolate samples and gave us a big bag of coco paste as a pressie before she called for someone to show us the entrance to the farm where our friends were working.
The entrance was literally an opening in the jungle, it was tipping down with rain and we had to trek it up this massive mudslide of a hill-come-river. It took at least 20 minutes of continuous struggling to scramble up the jungley hill and finally we found Alejandra who pointed us in the direction of our friends. Seeing our friendies from England was amazing- lots of screaming and shouting as we re-united. The girls have been living in a shanti shack. Their room had no walls, a tin roof, they was in a bucket as there's no running water. All their clothes were going mouldy due to the damp that they were living in and they were forced to live on a vegan diet consisting of mouse-sized portions- POOR BABYS!
After catching up and being showed around we all caught the bus back to puerto viejo and got lunch and chocolate brownies. Back in our hostel the girls showered and we all made a massive pot of hot chocolate. That night there was a live band in the hostel bar so we got cocktails and nachos. The girls left at 10ish but we danced loads and got given free shots, then went to the after party at Mangos. Got home at 4am all having had so much fun!
When we arrived we checked into a really cool hostel called 'Rocking Js' where we booked hammocks to sleep in and then grabbed food at a soda- rice with coco-nut milk, frijoles, chicken and salad, then set out to find Maya and Vee. Our first effort was an epic fail as we turned up at the wrong organic farm and just felt really disapointed and a bit silly. On the plus side the man had heard about our three english friends and gave us some instructions that we followed the next day. He told us to get the bus to Bribri but ask the bus driver to stop outside Dona Petronela's cacao farm and then ask her to get one of her workers to show us the entrance to Alejandra's farm. When we got to the cacao farm, the lady let us try loads of chocolate samples and gave us a big bag of coco paste as a pressie before she called for someone to show us the entrance to the farm where our friends were working.
The entrance was literally an opening in the jungle, it was tipping down with rain and we had to trek it up this massive mudslide of a hill-come-river. It took at least 20 minutes of continuous struggling to scramble up the jungley hill and finally we found Alejandra who pointed us in the direction of our friends. Seeing our friendies from England was amazing- lots of screaming and shouting as we re-united. The girls have been living in a shanti shack. Their room had no walls, a tin roof, they was in a bucket as there's no running water. All their clothes were going mouldy due to the damp that they were living in and they were forced to live on a vegan diet consisting of mouse-sized portions- POOR BABYS!
After catching up and being showed around we all caught the bus back to puerto viejo and got lunch and chocolate brownies. Back in our hostel the girls showered and we all made a massive pot of hot chocolate. That night there was a live band in the hostel bar so we got cocktails and nachos. The girls left at 10ish but we danced loads and got given free shots, then went to the after party at Mangos. Got home at 4am all having had so much fun!
Wednesday 18 November 2009
San Juan del Sud
We fell head over heels for this place! We arrived on Thursday at about 4pm after catching a couple of chicken buses- checked into a hostel and chilled on the beach til sunset. We didn't leave til 6 days later!
On the friday morning we got up at 6.30am to get ready for a yoga class. We waiting outside a cafe where a pick-up collected us and drove us to the most beautiful setting. We had our yoga class under a fixed gazebo with a thatched roof, surrounded by mago trees, over looking a swimmimg pool. We did the yoga for over an hour an in the relaxation period, the lady came around giving us all mini-thai massages and rubbed essential oils into our feet and temples- it smelt amazing. At the end we all got complementry home made iced tea too, it was really refreshing.
Once we'd been dropped back, me and Katie got a typical nica breakfast (huevos revueltos with frijoles, potatos, coffee and orange juice- yummmmmm.) Then we all searched for a cheaper hostel and ended up renting a room from a lovely lady who owned a laundrette. We loved having our own room, with our own house key, it smelt of soapy washing powder and was pretty shabby but it was home. We spent the rest of the day sunbatheing at the beach and then at 7.30pm we met at casa oro for a talk on turtles and turtle conservation before going to the reserve. 21 of us climbed into a large pick-up truck and were driven down dirt roads for about an hour and a half before getting to the beach where the turtles lived. It was pitch black but for the most incredible stars and red torches we'd been given (white light can damage the turtles or confuse them). We watched 75 baby turtles be released into the ocean, they were so cute. Then the guide took us to a grown turtle and we watched her dig her nest with her back legs, lay around 100 eggs and bury them in order to protect them. it was such a cool experience.
The next morning we went to yoga again before relaxing on a beach. We bumped into a girl that we've now bumped into in 4 different countries (she's lovely), her and her friend sunbathed with us and then we ended up all going out for dinner together (and 5 other people aswell). We had gallo pinto with barbacued chicken-nice! Then all went out to a really cool bar called the pier where there was this ultra hippy band was playing, a belly dancer and beach bonfires. We decided the night was still young as the bar began to close, so went out dancing to the only place still open and didn't stop dancing til 5am.
We'd spent most of the evening with three guys travelling together from Canada and met them the next day because they'd promised to teach us how to surf. We all rented boards and got a collectivo to a beach called El Remanso. I had a great day and we surfed right till the sun was setting, it was amazing.
Once we got dropped back to our hostels, we were starving and so got changed quickly before all going out for dinner together again, there was about 9 of us and we had the most delicious pizza ever (we got a free shot with the bill).
Next morning Katie and Allegra stayed in bed, but I got up and went to the guys hostel and off we all went to Yoga (they were really good... put me to shame) Then I picked up the girls and we all had brekki at El Mercado, I had Gallo Pinto with scrambled eggs and tortilla, then we hopped in the van to go surfing.
In the eveing we all went out to a fish restaurant and then reaturn to their hostel for a pre-party where we made our own cocktails from Flor de Cana and fruit juice. We stayed out late hanging out at the pier and iguanas (another beach bar).
The next day was again very relaxed, although i burned the entire back of my body and this morning we caught a bus to Cota Rica... well serval buses... and it didn't take so much as a morning as all day because we left San Juan del Sud at 8am and arrived in San Jose (Costa Rica) at 7pm.
On the friday morning we got up at 6.30am to get ready for a yoga class. We waiting outside a cafe where a pick-up collected us and drove us to the most beautiful setting. We had our yoga class under a fixed gazebo with a thatched roof, surrounded by mago trees, over looking a swimmimg pool. We did the yoga for over an hour an in the relaxation period, the lady came around giving us all mini-thai massages and rubbed essential oils into our feet and temples- it smelt amazing. At the end we all got complementry home made iced tea too, it was really refreshing.
Once we'd been dropped back, me and Katie got a typical nica breakfast (huevos revueltos with frijoles, potatos, coffee and orange juice- yummmmmm.) Then we all searched for a cheaper hostel and ended up renting a room from a lovely lady who owned a laundrette. We loved having our own room, with our own house key, it smelt of soapy washing powder and was pretty shabby but it was home. We spent the rest of the day sunbatheing at the beach and then at 7.30pm we met at casa oro for a talk on turtles and turtle conservation before going to the reserve. 21 of us climbed into a large pick-up truck and were driven down dirt roads for about an hour and a half before getting to the beach where the turtles lived. It was pitch black but for the most incredible stars and red torches we'd been given (white light can damage the turtles or confuse them). We watched 75 baby turtles be released into the ocean, they were so cute. Then the guide took us to a grown turtle and we watched her dig her nest with her back legs, lay around 100 eggs and bury them in order to protect them. it was such a cool experience.
The next morning we went to yoga again before relaxing on a beach. We bumped into a girl that we've now bumped into in 4 different countries (she's lovely), her and her friend sunbathed with us and then we ended up all going out for dinner together (and 5 other people aswell). We had gallo pinto with barbacued chicken-nice! Then all went out to a really cool bar called the pier where there was this ultra hippy band was playing, a belly dancer and beach bonfires. We decided the night was still young as the bar began to close, so went out dancing to the only place still open and didn't stop dancing til 5am.
We'd spent most of the evening with three guys travelling together from Canada and met them the next day because they'd promised to teach us how to surf. We all rented boards and got a collectivo to a beach called El Remanso. I had a great day and we surfed right till the sun was setting, it was amazing.
Once we got dropped back to our hostels, we were starving and so got changed quickly before all going out for dinner together again, there was about 9 of us and we had the most delicious pizza ever (we got a free shot with the bill).
Next morning Katie and Allegra stayed in bed, but I got up and went to the guys hostel and off we all went to Yoga (they were really good... put me to shame) Then I picked up the girls and we all had brekki at El Mercado, I had Gallo Pinto with scrambled eggs and tortilla, then we hopped in the van to go surfing.
In the eveing we all went out to a fish restaurant and then reaturn to their hostel for a pre-party where we made our own cocktails from Flor de Cana and fruit juice. We stayed out late hanging out at the pier and iguanas (another beach bar).
The next day was again very relaxed, although i burned the entire back of my body and this morning we caught a bus to Cota Rica... well serval buses... and it didn't take so much as a morning as all day because we left San Juan del Sud at 8am and arrived in San Jose (Costa Rica) at 7pm.
Thursday 12 November 2009
Granada -Nicaragua-
We left Perquin at 6.30am, spent 12 hours on a variety of chicken buses and crossed two borders before arriving at Nicaraguas captial- Managua. We ended up staying in a really nice, spacious hostel, although there were alot of holes in the walls. We went across the road and i tried Iguana soup for dinner, it was actually really yummy!
Next day we got up early and got on a shuttle bus to Granada. After dumping our stuff in a hostel we wandered through the city and found the biggest market ever- it stretched on for miles! We wandered around and picked out vegtables, rice, frijoles and spice to cook dinner with- we were pretty proud of our efforts.
That evening we met a really lovely guy called Alan who said he'd show us around the city and take us on a boat trip around the islands -it's the biggest lake in the whole of Central America- The next morning we met Alan, bought pasteries for breakfast and ate them in his hostel with free coffee. Two swiss people joined our trip- Alan took us to the indian park where they used to have markets every sunday, now it's abandoned and over grown though. He took us through the high class area, the middle class area and the poor area, which is the 'hood' he grew up in. We went into the old fortress used to protect the city from pirates, it was turned into a prison and torture chamber during the civil war in order to capture those involved with the revolution. Up the tower was the most amazing view of the whole city. Then we went into the most amazing grave yard i've ever seen. They weren't so much graves as houses for the dead- one was even made from marble and an exact replica of Granadas newest church, although instead of angles on the roof were skulls as the woman was said to have done a deal with the devil. Granada and Leon both wanted to be the capital city so Leon hired a man to burn Granada city to the ground. The first time he burnt it, he left a plaque saying 'here was Granada' and the second time he burnt it, he left a coffin, implying that Granada was dead, but the city rebuilt and is alive as ever.
After our morning walk, we all jumped in a boat a went around the lake. We stopped at monkey island where a monkey jumped on to our boat, walked up an down the middle and snatched a bannana off the swiss girl, then it grabbed Katie's hand before walking off again- very cool!
We stopped at a second island and spent 4 hours swimming in the lake, sunbathing and getting lunch. It was paradise, so beautiful and really chilled.
When we got back to the main land Alan showed us a good hairdresser so Leggra could get her hair done- it cost the equivalent of 1pound 20 and looks really good. Then we walked back to Alan's hostel where him and the swiss girl cooked us dinner with the remaining beans and some more bits we'd bought from the market- delicious!
Next day we got up early and got on a shuttle bus to Granada. After dumping our stuff in a hostel we wandered through the city and found the biggest market ever- it stretched on for miles! We wandered around and picked out vegtables, rice, frijoles and spice to cook dinner with- we were pretty proud of our efforts.
That evening we met a really lovely guy called Alan who said he'd show us around the city and take us on a boat trip around the islands -it's the biggest lake in the whole of Central America- The next morning we met Alan, bought pasteries for breakfast and ate them in his hostel with free coffee. Two swiss people joined our trip- Alan took us to the indian park where they used to have markets every sunday, now it's abandoned and over grown though. He took us through the high class area, the middle class area and the poor area, which is the 'hood' he grew up in. We went into the old fortress used to protect the city from pirates, it was turned into a prison and torture chamber during the civil war in order to capture those involved with the revolution. Up the tower was the most amazing view of the whole city. Then we went into the most amazing grave yard i've ever seen. They weren't so much graves as houses for the dead- one was even made from marble and an exact replica of Granadas newest church, although instead of angles on the roof were skulls as the woman was said to have done a deal with the devil. Granada and Leon both wanted to be the capital city so Leon hired a man to burn Granada city to the ground. The first time he burnt it, he left a plaque saying 'here was Granada' and the second time he burnt it, he left a coffin, implying that Granada was dead, but the city rebuilt and is alive as ever.
After our morning walk, we all jumped in a boat a went around the lake. We stopped at monkey island where a monkey jumped on to our boat, walked up an down the middle and snatched a bannana off the swiss girl, then it grabbed Katie's hand before walking off again- very cool!
We stopped at a second island and spent 4 hours swimming in the lake, sunbathing and getting lunch. It was paradise, so beautiful and really chilled.
When we got back to the main land Alan showed us a good hairdresser so Leggra could get her hair done- it cost the equivalent of 1pound 20 and looks really good. Then we walked back to Alan's hostel where him and the swiss girl cooked us dinner with the remaining beans and some more bits we'd bought from the market- delicious!
Perquin
We got a number of chicken buses to Perquin, a really important town, up in the mountains in El Salvador, as it was controlled by the guerrillas during the civil war. We stayed in a really beautiful hotel, we had our own log cabin and the food was amazing!
It rained like crazy during our time in Perquin, we didn't realise at the time, but this was because of a hurricane. The hurricane killed over 100 people in El Salvador and left even more homeless or injurged. By complete coinsidence, we were in the safest place possible. Being on top of a mountain ment that the land slides didn't affect us- we're just lucky i guess!!
We went to El Museo de la Revolucion and a man called Carlos showed us around. He fought with the guerrillas, against the goverment from the age of 16 between 1980 and 1992. He's been shot in each leg and he showed me the bullet wound in his neck and told me that afterwards he couldn't speak or eat for 8 months and had to be in a volunteer run hospital in the mountains whilst he recovered. His 2 sisters and brothers also fought in the war, but i'm not sure what happened to them.
The guerillas were supported by various organizations but the money was limited. People went down to San Salvador to bring back food for the guerrillas but the whole trip took 8 days so for at least 4 days the guerrillas would have nothing to eat.
All the photos were in black and white and Carlos took us outside to show us the wreckage of helicopters that the guerrillas had shot down. It was incredible hearing all this information first hand and made me realise how lucky i am to have never gone through what Carlos had at only 16 years old.
Next door was the guerrilla camp which a boy showed us around. Around 200- 300 guerrillas would have lived there. We saw bunkers and tunnels that the freedom fighters would have hid in as goverment helicopters flew over head dropping bombs.
At the end of the tour the boy showed us an old photo of his dad in his guerrilla uniform. His dad fought from the ages of 14 to 26 and still has a scar on the side of his face from when he was shot.
It rained like crazy during our time in Perquin, we didn't realise at the time, but this was because of a hurricane. The hurricane killed over 100 people in El Salvador and left even more homeless or injurged. By complete coinsidence, we were in the safest place possible. Being on top of a mountain ment that the land slides didn't affect us- we're just lucky i guess!!
We went to El Museo de la Revolucion and a man called Carlos showed us around. He fought with the guerrillas, against the goverment from the age of 16 between 1980 and 1992. He's been shot in each leg and he showed me the bullet wound in his neck and told me that afterwards he couldn't speak or eat for 8 months and had to be in a volunteer run hospital in the mountains whilst he recovered. His 2 sisters and brothers also fought in the war, but i'm not sure what happened to them.
The guerillas were supported by various organizations but the money was limited. People went down to San Salvador to bring back food for the guerrillas but the whole trip took 8 days so for at least 4 days the guerrillas would have nothing to eat.
All the photos were in black and white and Carlos took us outside to show us the wreckage of helicopters that the guerrillas had shot down. It was incredible hearing all this information first hand and made me realise how lucky i am to have never gone through what Carlos had at only 16 years old.
Next door was the guerrilla camp which a boy showed us around. Around 200- 300 guerrillas would have lived there. We saw bunkers and tunnels that the freedom fighters would have hid in as goverment helicopters flew over head dropping bombs.
At the end of the tour the boy showed us an old photo of his dad in his guerrilla uniform. His dad fought from the ages of 14 to 26 and still has a scar on the side of his face from when he was shot.
San Salvador
Crossing the border from Guatemala to El Salvador turned out to be a long journey. We made our way using local buses- ie. Chicken Buses. Chicken buses are an experience in themselves- they are old american school buses, brightly painted and covered with cartoon stickers. They are crammed full with people and luggage, hot and uncomfy. Men, women and children walk up the isles with baskets of snacks, fruit, newspapers, fizzy drinks, gum in their arms or balanced on their head trying to sell you their products. One man stood at the frount of the bus reading from the bible and at one stop a man dressed as a clown got on and performed magic tricks. Chicken buses are crazy!
We saved alot of money getting the chicken buses instead of the tourist bus, but it ment we had to get 5 buses instead of 1, it was quite fun though and at the border there were bicycle taxis. We sat in a little carriage thing whilst a the taxi driver cycled us across a large bridge connecting Guatemala and El Salvador.
When we got to the capital it was dark so instead of continuing we decided to stay over night. The next morning we explored the city and went to Museo de la palabra y la Imagen which was really cool- had lots of images of the poverty in El Salvador and of the civil war too.
We wandered into the city centre- poked our heads in the market and cathedral. Unfortunatly it started raining around mid day so decided to go to this big american-style mall- shop and go to the cinema.
I have to be honest and say that San Salvador is the most horrible place we've been out of the trip so far, it's smelly and grimey and the streets are lined with american fast food resturants. Everyone carrys a gun and i even saw a man get on the bus with a machete. Every bank, garage, hostel, clothes shop, cinema ect has an armed gaurd in it. The upside however, is that everyone is really friendly and goes out of their way to help you. All the same is was a relif when we left the city!
We saved alot of money getting the chicken buses instead of the tourist bus, but it ment we had to get 5 buses instead of 1, it was quite fun though and at the border there were bicycle taxis. We sat in a little carriage thing whilst a the taxi driver cycled us across a large bridge connecting Guatemala and El Salvador.
When we got to the capital it was dark so instead of continuing we decided to stay over night. The next morning we explored the city and went to Museo de la palabra y la Imagen which was really cool- had lots of images of the poverty in El Salvador and of the civil war too.
We wandered into the city centre- poked our heads in the market and cathedral. Unfortunatly it started raining around mid day so decided to go to this big american-style mall- shop and go to the cinema.
I have to be honest and say that San Salvador is the most horrible place we've been out of the trip so far, it's smelly and grimey and the streets are lined with american fast food resturants. Everyone carrys a gun and i even saw a man get on the bus with a machete. Every bank, garage, hostel, clothes shop, cinema ect has an armed gaurd in it. The upside however, is that everyone is really friendly and goes out of their way to help you. All the same is was a relif when we left the city!
Thursday 5 November 2009
Antigua
At 8ish in the morning we got to a hostel called ´the black cat´at that time in the morning we were too tired to notice, but later it became all too evident that the whole room was covered in mould and damp, it stank too! Katie slept in a bit whilst me and Leggra wandered through the town and into a market where i bought a handbag (did some some hardcore haggling and got the woman down to half price) and Leggra bought some sandles.
At 2ish, Katie joined us and we hopped into a collectivo for a tour of the local coffee plantation. It was really cool- now i know how cooffe is made, from the plant to the cup. Also i interestingly discovered that although espresso tastes stronger, it actually has less caffine in it than normal coffee because espresso beans are roasted longer. After that we also had a tour about traditional Maya instuments and music, then at the end we got free coffee- it tasted amazing!
When we got dropped back we raced off to a free salsa workshop that we´d seen advertised in our hostel- it was so fun. We learnt a few basic steps then all the men who worked in the hostel and had salsaed all their lives danced with us so we could put what we´d learnt into practice.
After dinner we sat in our hostels bar for a bit and saw the salsa instructors their. After chatting for a bit they took us and some others from the hostel to a bar called mono loco (it was ladies night, so our drinks were about 10p each) then on to a salsa bar. The salsa bar was crazy, everyone and i mean EVERYONE was salsaring- being flipped upside down, whizzed around, shimmying, singing, screaming- the atmosphere was electric. I danced with a guy from our dorm, but although i enjoyed myself, it has to be said that the latin women put me to shame.
The next day was amazing. We spent the afternoon treking up an active volcano- 1-2 intensive hours walking practically vertically upwards. The views were breath-taking and just the fact we were walking up an active volcano was too. We´d brought marshmallows from the market that morning because normally you´re allowed to toast them on the lava. When we got to the top however the guide told us it was too unsafe to get that close to the lava and just as i asked why... a massive glowing red rock began to pick up speed as it rolled down the mountain in our directing before veering off- everyone freaked and start running away from it. I nearly got pushed over by this woman trying to run past me. All the same, it was really cool watching the glowing red lava against the dark night sky as well as feeling the heat that all the big rocks were emitting. the rocks around us were way too hot to touch for any amounted off time.
At one point me, Legs and Katie got really scared that the guide had left us because it was getting close to pitch black and we couldn´t find him anywhere. No-one else seemed to know where he was either, so we persuaded this poor guy from our group to walk with us back down the volcano. Unfortunately none of us had a torch, it was freezing cold once you´d moved away from the hot rocks and we were all terrified and kept tripping. Luckiy after a while we had the sense to stop and wait and soon herd voices behind us- one of which was our guides. ´where were you? we thought you´d left us.´i said trying not to sound us upset as i was.
He just shrugged and said 'i´m here now' and then gave me his spare tourch.
Once we were with our guide and surrounded by the rest of our group walking down the volcano in the dark was really fun, except when the guide kept jumping out at me from behind trees and creeping up on me going 'sasha...' in a really scarey voice. I feel for it evrytime but i did see the funny side after the inital shock.
At 2ish, Katie joined us and we hopped into a collectivo for a tour of the local coffee plantation. It was really cool- now i know how cooffe is made, from the plant to the cup. Also i interestingly discovered that although espresso tastes stronger, it actually has less caffine in it than normal coffee because espresso beans are roasted longer. After that we also had a tour about traditional Maya instuments and music, then at the end we got free coffee- it tasted amazing!
When we got dropped back we raced off to a free salsa workshop that we´d seen advertised in our hostel- it was so fun. We learnt a few basic steps then all the men who worked in the hostel and had salsaed all their lives danced with us so we could put what we´d learnt into practice.
After dinner we sat in our hostels bar for a bit and saw the salsa instructors their. After chatting for a bit they took us and some others from the hostel to a bar called mono loco (it was ladies night, so our drinks were about 10p each) then on to a salsa bar. The salsa bar was crazy, everyone and i mean EVERYONE was salsaring- being flipped upside down, whizzed around, shimmying, singing, screaming- the atmosphere was electric. I danced with a guy from our dorm, but although i enjoyed myself, it has to be said that the latin women put me to shame.
The next day was amazing. We spent the afternoon treking up an active volcano- 1-2 intensive hours walking practically vertically upwards. The views were breath-taking and just the fact we were walking up an active volcano was too. We´d brought marshmallows from the market that morning because normally you´re allowed to toast them on the lava. When we got to the top however the guide told us it was too unsafe to get that close to the lava and just as i asked why... a massive glowing red rock began to pick up speed as it rolled down the mountain in our directing before veering off- everyone freaked and start running away from it. I nearly got pushed over by this woman trying to run past me. All the same, it was really cool watching the glowing red lava against the dark night sky as well as feeling the heat that all the big rocks were emitting. the rocks around us were way too hot to touch for any amounted off time.
At one point me, Legs and Katie got really scared that the guide had left us because it was getting close to pitch black and we couldn´t find him anywhere. No-one else seemed to know where he was either, so we persuaded this poor guy from our group to walk with us back down the volcano. Unfortunately none of us had a torch, it was freezing cold once you´d moved away from the hot rocks and we were all terrified and kept tripping. Luckiy after a while we had the sense to stop and wait and soon herd voices behind us- one of which was our guides. ´where were you? we thought you´d left us.´i said trying not to sound us upset as i was.
He just shrugged and said 'i´m here now' and then gave me his spare tourch.
Once we were with our guide and surrounded by the rest of our group walking down the volcano in the dark was really fun, except when the guide kept jumping out at me from behind trees and creeping up on me going 'sasha...' in a really scarey voice. I feel for it evrytime but i did see the funny side after the inital shock.
Flores (Guatemala)
On friday at 6am we got in to a van, hopped on a boat the got another bus in order to cross the boarder into Guatemala. Flores is a really quite place... too quite for me, but i really did appreciate how beautiful it was.
On our first day we lazed around alot- sitting in hammocks, swimmimg in the lake (both before breakfast and after watching the sunset). Its so green in guatemala- palm trees are everywhere. What did suprise me though is how the locals will casually stroll around with guns tucked into belts around their jeans. All the same, they´re really friendly and helpful.
We had dinner at a really lovely restuarant over looking the lake with a couple of cocktails (only 1pound here). In the evening we came across a small bar absoloutly packed with people dancing to a live band- it was so much fun. When the band ended, we headed next door to a club playing loud latin music and danced til we couldn´t feel our feet anymore. Unlike party Mexico though- everything in Guatemala closes at 1am- bars, night clubs... everything.
The next day was another chilled day and in the evening we snuggled up in this really cute cafe and watched a dvd with a free bowl of pop corn and nchos with salsa and guacamole.
Early start the next day, as we got the 5am bus to Tikal, a beautiful old maya city, surrounded by jungle. We passed a lake with a crocodile lazing by the bank on our way in and also saw a racoon and a monkey swining through the trees! To get to the top of one of the temples, we had to climb a 58m wooden ladder. In truth i was terrified, but the view was so worth it. Jungle stretched as far as the eye could see only broken up by the odd stone temple or ruin.
That night we got a night bus to Antigua, an all together much livlier place!
Saturday 31 October 2009
Palenque
Another horrendous bus journey, felt sick pretty much the whole way, but it was sooo worth it! we got a colectivo from Palenque to El Panchán were all the cabañas are situated in the dense jungle. The jungle is amazing, very humid though and lots of bugs and spiders. After sleeping in our deet saturated cabaña, we got up to go to the palenque ruins. They were discovered by a spanish priest in the 1700s after he herd tales from Maya hunters about 'the lost jungle city'. There were hundreds of excavated buildings, all cover in symbols and paintings. You could explore many of the buildings without seeing another soul- that´s how remote they were.
At one point Leggra's flipflops snapped and considering the amount of spider crawling around, we improvised and made her jungle shoes by tying vine leaves around her shoes. After lunch, back by our cabaña, the scariest thing happened! We herd two loud bangs and a women ran out of the restaurant shouting 'phone the police'. We had no idea what was going on but when i asked someone, they said that it had been a gun shot but that nobody had been killed or hurt and that the police were on there way. He seemed ridiculously chilled about the situation, so Katie and Leggra made me ask him if it happened often to which he just shrugged and said, 'yea.. sometimes' When I asked him if the situation was serious, he just smiled and said, 'Yea.. a bit.'
So anyway, that really scared me and we didn´t leave our table for hours. The locals on the other hand, just got back to work like nothing had happened.
Dinner was really fun, after our food there was a band and this guy came to the table and asked me to dance. I was a bit nervous because their style of dance is so different here but it was so fun. It felt like salsa but had a slightly different rhythm, all the same.. lots of spinning around ect... Then there was a fire show- girls did the spilts, handstands whilst spinning sticks of fire over their heads. Pretty amazing.
At one point Leggra's flipflops snapped and considering the amount of spider crawling around, we improvised and made her jungle shoes by tying vine leaves around her shoes. After lunch, back by our cabaña, the scariest thing happened! We herd two loud bangs and a women ran out of the restaurant shouting 'phone the police'. We had no idea what was going on but when i asked someone, they said that it had been a gun shot but that nobody had been killed or hurt and that the police were on there way. He seemed ridiculously chilled about the situation, so Katie and Leggra made me ask him if it happened often to which he just shrugged and said, 'yea.. sometimes' When I asked him if the situation was serious, he just smiled and said, 'Yea.. a bit.'
So anyway, that really scared me and we didn´t leave our table for hours. The locals on the other hand, just got back to work like nothing had happened.
Dinner was really fun, after our food there was a band and this guy came to the table and asked me to dance. I was a bit nervous because their style of dance is so different here but it was so fun. It felt like salsa but had a slightly different rhythm, all the same.. lots of spinning around ect... Then there was a fire show- girls did the spilts, handstands whilst spinning sticks of fire over their heads. Pretty amazing.
Friday 30 October 2009
San Cristobal de las Casas
A 12 hour night bus brought us to San Cristobal and when we arrived at 6.45am we opted to go to the first hostel suggested to us- Planet Hostel- it ended up being amazing with BREAKFAST INCLUDED.
Before we even got the chance to dump our bags in the room, a man that works at the hostel invited us to go to a maya village called Tzajala as he was already taking some students and only did a trip like this once every couple of months. Tired, dazed and confussed we just agreed and after changing we and about 10 other people our age got a colectivo to the villiage.
It was so humid there and really hard work walking up this massive hill... it was worth it though as once we got to the top we were able to jump in this freezing stream with a waterfall it was so refreshing. After eating lunch by the waterfall we all had a mud bath, which was really funny.
In the village we took part in a spiritual cleansing ceromony. To begin the ceromony the leader blew through a conch to gather us all. A vase of pink roses and white lillies was placed next to a bonire as an offering to the earth which we all stood around. the leader talked us through the ceromony (in spanish but someone did translate) and then he began to chant. He filled the conch with ashes and walked around the circle holding it beneath each persons face, we had to wash our face and hair with the smoke and say 'aho' which is maya for welcome. When this was done we had to salute each direction- north, east, south, west, the sky and the earth with our hands held high as the leader chanted and we had to touch our heads to the ground to salute mother earth.
After this preperation, the real ceremony began... everyone lined up to enter the demazcal (a low circular stone wall cover by canvus). Before crawling through the entrance we had to press our forehead to the earth and say 'Aho Demazcal'. Inside there was a pit and once everyone was in the demazcal the pit was filled with hot stones before water was poured over them, creating a sauna- steamroom affect. We were all sat in the pitch black whilst the leader chanted and sang. The songs were based on call and response so that everyone joined in- there were drums, wooden flutes and claves (I got to play them at one point).
It was a really crazy experience- we were in the demazcal for about 2 hours in total and afterwards got to jump in the icey river again.
After this we all got to eat with the Maya people and then we slept in the cabañas. The next morning we shared the most delicious breakfast with them before getting the collectivo back to Planet hostel.
In the evening we met up with two guys and two girls from the trip at Cafe Revolution, a really cool bar with a bohemian vibe. We got cocktails and red wine and danced to this really cool gypsy-rock band. Whenthe music stopped we went onto a bar with a live salsa band. I was taught how to salsa and merenge, then danced with some other people- very fun!
Early start the next morning as we went horse ridin at 9am. A pick-up truck came to the hostel, we sat in the trailer and got dropped to the horses. We rode through a beautiful, mountainous forest and over rocks to get to a maya village called Chamula. There was a large market selling fruit, scarves, cowboy boots ect.. The men wore thick belted, black fur vests and the women wore long, high-waist, black fur skirts with sliky short sleeved shirts. the church was stunning- a mix of catholic and maya beliefs. The floor was covered in pine leaves and candles, those worshipping the golden paintings were surrounded by candles, chanting and sipping fizzy drinks like coke or beer. This is so that they burp out any evil spirits.
The ride back was beautiful, we passed women washing their clothes in the streams and hanging them to dry on the rocks.
After lunch in San Cristolbal we wandered around and found the Maya market there. They sold jewellery, dream catchers, zapatista dolls ect... the San Domingo was stunning too- everything within it was gold.
On theour last day in San Cristobal we had another 9am start for el cañon de submideron. The canyon was incredible- it´s banks lined with jungle, crocodiles, pelicans, vultures and it was boiling.
Before we even got the chance to dump our bags in the room, a man that works at the hostel invited us to go to a maya village called Tzajala as he was already taking some students and only did a trip like this once every couple of months. Tired, dazed and confussed we just agreed and after changing we and about 10 other people our age got a colectivo to the villiage.
It was so humid there and really hard work walking up this massive hill... it was worth it though as once we got to the top we were able to jump in this freezing stream with a waterfall it was so refreshing. After eating lunch by the waterfall we all had a mud bath, which was really funny.
In the village we took part in a spiritual cleansing ceromony. To begin the ceromony the leader blew through a conch to gather us all. A vase of pink roses and white lillies was placed next to a bonire as an offering to the earth which we all stood around. the leader talked us through the ceromony (in spanish but someone did translate) and then he began to chant. He filled the conch with ashes and walked around the circle holding it beneath each persons face, we had to wash our face and hair with the smoke and say 'aho' which is maya for welcome. When this was done we had to salute each direction- north, east, south, west, the sky and the earth with our hands held high as the leader chanted and we had to touch our heads to the ground to salute mother earth.
After this preperation, the real ceremony began... everyone lined up to enter the demazcal (a low circular stone wall cover by canvus). Before crawling through the entrance we had to press our forehead to the earth and say 'Aho Demazcal'. Inside there was a pit and once everyone was in the demazcal the pit was filled with hot stones before water was poured over them, creating a sauna- steamroom affect. We were all sat in the pitch black whilst the leader chanted and sang. The songs were based on call and response so that everyone joined in- there were drums, wooden flutes and claves (I got to play them at one point).
It was a really crazy experience- we were in the demazcal for about 2 hours in total and afterwards got to jump in the icey river again.
After this we all got to eat with the Maya people and then we slept in the cabañas. The next morning we shared the most delicious breakfast with them before getting the collectivo back to Planet hostel.
In the evening we met up with two guys and two girls from the trip at Cafe Revolution, a really cool bar with a bohemian vibe. We got cocktails and red wine and danced to this really cool gypsy-rock band. Whenthe music stopped we went onto a bar with a live salsa band. I was taught how to salsa and merenge, then danced with some other people- very fun!
Early start the next morning as we went horse ridin at 9am. A pick-up truck came to the hostel, we sat in the trailer and got dropped to the horses. We rode through a beautiful, mountainous forest and over rocks to get to a maya village called Chamula. There was a large market selling fruit, scarves, cowboy boots ect.. The men wore thick belted, black fur vests and the women wore long, high-waist, black fur skirts with sliky short sleeved shirts. the church was stunning- a mix of catholic and maya beliefs. The floor was covered in pine leaves and candles, those worshipping the golden paintings were surrounded by candles, chanting and sipping fizzy drinks like coke or beer. This is so that they burp out any evil spirits.
The ride back was beautiful, we passed women washing their clothes in the streams and hanging them to dry on the rocks.
After lunch in San Cristolbal we wandered around and found the Maya market there. They sold jewellery, dream catchers, zapatista dolls ect... the San Domingo was stunning too- everything within it was gold.
On theour last day in San Cristobal we had another 9am start for el cañon de submideron. The canyon was incredible- it´s banks lined with jungle, crocodiles, pelicans, vultures and it was boiling.
Sunday 25 October 2009
Zipolite
Our journey from Oaxaca to Pochutla was 6 and a half hours long and I felt horrific for at least 6 of those hours! We were in a camioneta whizzing around crazily steep, winedy mountain roads. Once we arrived we jumped into a taxi with another traveller we'd met and got dropped off at Zipolite a sleepy town with the most chilled hippy beach ever. We had so much fun here sunbatheing, befriending locals (they told us where the best bar was and gave us loads of free beer and tequila). Hotels were mega cheap and lined the beach- we had coco nut for breakfast (through a straw) and chilled in hammocks when we got too hot. We really didn't wan't to leave and are deffinately going to reaturn.
La ciudad de Oaxaca
From Mexico City we took a 6 and a half hour bus ride with beautiful views of volcanos and mountains covered in catci. We stayed in a hostel called {El Quijote} with ... double beds... so comfy!
In the morning a comioneta picked us up from our hostel and dropped us at Monte Alban, which is an ancient Maya city in the mountains. We scrambled over steep stoney stair cases that dated back to 500ad and lookd at buildings from 100bc. It was incredible and the views from the mountain were brath taking.
Climbing back down old men and women, their skin all wrinkled from the sun and backs all hunched approached us and beckoned us to stalls shouting 'amiga, amiga' We all bought jewellry from them.
After getting back we explored the town and it's massive markets, artisan craft shops and chocolate factorys! we stopped in Hotel Chocolate which had a factory on the ground floor and hotel rooms above, causing the whole place to smell delicious. The women offered us spoonfulls of dark melted chocolate and chillie chocolate, it was so amazing that we decided to stay and have a hot choc in their cafe- the best we've ever tasted.
We spent the evening drinking red wine in the plaza where lots of children came to us begging for money- after giving one boy some change, we were surronded, but at the end of the day afew pesos is nothing to us so we didn't mind. One girl even sat down next to us, held hands with llegra and tried to hug us... she was so sweet.
In the morning a comioneta picked us up from our hostel and dropped us at Monte Alban, which is an ancient Maya city in the mountains. We scrambled over steep stoney stair cases that dated back to 500ad and lookd at buildings from 100bc. It was incredible and the views from the mountain were brath taking.
Climbing back down old men and women, their skin all wrinkled from the sun and backs all hunched approached us and beckoned us to stalls shouting 'amiga, amiga' We all bought jewellry from them.
After getting back we explored the town and it's massive markets, artisan craft shops and chocolate factorys! we stopped in Hotel Chocolate which had a factory on the ground floor and hotel rooms above, causing the whole place to smell delicious. The women offered us spoonfulls of dark melted chocolate and chillie chocolate, it was so amazing that we decided to stay and have a hot choc in their cafe- the best we've ever tasted.
We spent the evening drinking red wine in the plaza where lots of children came to us begging for money- after giving one boy some change, we were surronded, but at the end of the day afew pesos is nothing to us so we didn't mind. One girl even sat down next to us, held hands with llegra and tried to hug us... she was so sweet.
Sunday 18 October 2009
HOLA EL DF
When me, Katie and Leggra first stepped out of the Mexican Airport I was amazed by Mexico City- it was not at all how I imagiened it to be. There are massive bill boards, sky scrapers, the roads are crazily busy and set out in grids, so it really reminds me of NYC. There´s alot of american influence but it´s mixed up with a really vibrant hispanic feel.
We´re staying in a gorgeous hostel in a 10 bed mixed dorm- everyone is so fun and friendly and we get breakfast cooked for us everyday.
Our first day was really cultural- we got the metro to chapultepec and made our way up Paseo de la Reforma, which is road that runs up this huge park. We saw the Anthropology Museam ,which has loads of amazing maya ruins, and the Mordern Art Museam which were both really cool but also really cheap.
When we got back to the hostel... it was TEQUILA TIME as they provided us all with a 3 litre bottle and wouldn´t let us leave the room til we drank the lot. It was so fun as it bonded everyone - I spoke to a group of Brazillians, some Spanish, and someone from south america. Then a group of 9 of us decided to go out clubbing in La Zona Rosa and ended up at this gay club called Lipstick. It was incredible, we danced so much and the music was amazing- a mix of english and salsa-ish hispanic songs.
Today we still woke up early to get breakfast and went off to Xochicala. It was an epic journey... well... for us- we got two trains at the metro and then went on the tren de linero (17 stops)- but it was so worth it. I was really shoked by the level of poverty when we arrived, the flats were all really run down with broken windows and there were alot of homeless people only wearing ripped clothes and no shoes- it was especially sad to see little children dressed this way.
However, we navagated our way through the streets and got to the river where they do trips in long, brightly coloured boats to a floating market. A man punts at the front of the boat and honestly i´ve seen anything like it before- the river was packed with sellers in boats offering ponchos, roses, food and one boat drew up next to us to serenade us. We bought lunch off this couple in a canoe and they made us two rice dishes- my favourite was chicken with mole (a mexican sauce made with chocolate and chile)
The boat trip lasted two hours and on our way back to the metro we found this market that literally stretched on for miles. They gave us so much free food- amazing! There were also animals for sale- little bunnys, chicks, ducks and birds... actually there were even mini terrerpins for sale.
So basically WE LOVE MEXICO CITY. Next stop... Oaxaca....
We´re staying in a gorgeous hostel in a 10 bed mixed dorm- everyone is so fun and friendly and we get breakfast cooked for us everyday.
Our first day was really cultural- we got the metro to chapultepec and made our way up Paseo de la Reforma, which is road that runs up this huge park. We saw the Anthropology Museam ,which has loads of amazing maya ruins, and the Mordern Art Museam which were both really cool but also really cheap.
When we got back to the hostel... it was TEQUILA TIME as they provided us all with a 3 litre bottle and wouldn´t let us leave the room til we drank the lot. It was so fun as it bonded everyone - I spoke to a group of Brazillians, some Spanish, and someone from south america. Then a group of 9 of us decided to go out clubbing in La Zona Rosa and ended up at this gay club called Lipstick. It was incredible, we danced so much and the music was amazing- a mix of english and salsa-ish hispanic songs.
Today we still woke up early to get breakfast and went off to Xochicala. It was an epic journey... well... for us- we got two trains at the metro and then went on the tren de linero (17 stops)- but it was so worth it. I was really shoked by the level of poverty when we arrived, the flats were all really run down with broken windows and there were alot of homeless people only wearing ripped clothes and no shoes- it was especially sad to see little children dressed this way.
However, we navagated our way through the streets and got to the river where they do trips in long, brightly coloured boats to a floating market. A man punts at the front of the boat and honestly i´ve seen anything like it before- the river was packed with sellers in boats offering ponchos, roses, food and one boat drew up next to us to serenade us. We bought lunch off this couple in a canoe and they made us two rice dishes- my favourite was chicken with mole (a mexican sauce made with chocolate and chile)
The boat trip lasted two hours and on our way back to the metro we found this market that literally stretched on for miles. They gave us so much free food- amazing! There were also animals for sale- little bunnys, chicks, ducks and birds... actually there were even mini terrerpins for sale.
So basically WE LOVE MEXICO CITY. Next stop... Oaxaca....
Wednesday 7 October 2009
Saying Goodbye....
It's now 9 days until we leave which is both incredibly exciting and incredibly scary. This week is filled with goodbye meals and drinks so that we can spend lots of time with family and friends before we go- It' really hard as I love them all so much! And saying goodbye to all these amazing people is just sad.
The good news however is that we are meeting up with some of our friends as we travel- I'll be seeing Vee and Maya in Costa Rica only 1 month after we leave England, Clo and Natti are comming to the RIO CARNIVAL ( excited!! ) and lots of our friends are going to Australia and then the legends that are Tom and Hazza are in Thailand when we are! So though we won't see some people for over 8 months, others we'll see o-so soon, just on the other side of the world.
Anyway, friends and family I LOVE YOU MUCHISIMO xxx
Thursday 24 September 2009
Preperation
It's only a little over 3 weeks until I go travelling around the world with two of my friends so there's loads to organise but as you can imagien I'm extremely excited. On the 16th of October we will be flying from London all the way to Mexico City in order to stay with family friends for a couple of nights before exploring the rest of Central America via chicken buses, over night buses and other such interesting transport.
After travelling to San Jose we'll fly to Peru where we've booked to trek the inca trail around the end of november. Apart from that we'll be free to travel around South America as we please because the only the other thing that we've booked in advance is our ticket and accomadation during the massive carnival in Rio (mid Febuary).
Some time in March we'll fly from Argentina to Sydney and make our way up the east coast of Australia and then in May we'll fly to Singapore to do the classic Singapore- Bangkok route. Then fingers crossed... if there is time we can visit Cambodia, Laos and Vietnam before reaturning home at the end of June.
I can't wait for the adventure to begin and if you think it sounds exciting too, keep in touch and see how I get on.
After travelling to San Jose we'll fly to Peru where we've booked to trek the inca trail around the end of november. Apart from that we'll be free to travel around South America as we please because the only the other thing that we've booked in advance is our ticket and accomadation during the massive carnival in Rio (mid Febuary).
Some time in March we'll fly from Argentina to Sydney and make our way up the east coast of Australia and then in May we'll fly to Singapore to do the classic Singapore- Bangkok route. Then fingers crossed... if there is time we can visit Cambodia, Laos and Vietnam before reaturning home at the end of June.
I can't wait for the adventure to begin and if you think it sounds exciting too, keep in touch and see how I get on.
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